贡贝溪国家公园- 景点攻略
Gombe Stream National Park

自然风光
坦桑尼亚
5 评论
+2 张照片
建议游玩时长:48 小时

贡贝溪国家公园(Gombe Stream National Park)深度游指南:追寻珍妮·古道尔的足迹

在坦桑尼亚西部,坦噶尼喀湖(Lake Tanganyika)碧蓝的湖水拍打着陡峭的东岸,这里隐藏着一块未经雕琢的翡翠——贡贝溪国家公园(Gombe Stream National Park)。虽然它的面积仅有 52 平方公里(另有数据为 35 平方公里),是坦桑尼亚最小的国家公园,但它在自然历史上的地位却举足轻重。这里不仅是濒危黑猩猩的避难所,更是著名灵长类动物学家珍·古道尔(Jane Goodall)博士开展长达 60 余年开创性研究的地方。

如果您厌倦了传统的草原驱车游猎,渴望一场深入雨林、通过双脚丈量土地的徒步游猎(Walking Safari),那么贡贝溪将是您坦桑尼亚之行中最触动心灵的一站。

为什么是贡贝溪?不仅是国家公园,更是人类学的圣地

珍妮·古道尔与 Gombe 的历史渊源

1960 年,年仅 26 岁的珍·古道尔踏上了这片土地。当时,贡贝溪还只是一个鲜为人知的野生动物保护区。正是通过在这里对卡塞凯拉(Kasekela)黑猩猩群落的长期观察,人类第一次发现黑猩猩会制造工具、拥有复杂的情感和社会结构。这一发现彻底改变了“人类”的定义。

来到贡贝,您不仅是在观赏野生动物,更是在朝圣。您行走的每一条小径,都可能重叠着当年古道尔博士追踪“灰胡子大卫(David Greybeard)”时的足迹。

迷你而精致:坦桑尼亚最小国家公园的独特生态

贡贝溪国家公园是一个狭长的地带,夹在东非大裂谷的陡峭悬崖和世界上最长的淡水湖——坦噶尼喀湖之间。尽管面积“迷你”,其垂直生态分布却极其丰富:从湖边的草原、林地,逐渐过渡到茂密的热带雨林和高山竹林。除了名声在外的黑猩猩,这里还栖息着红疣猴(Red Colobus)、橄榄狒狒(Olive Baboon)、红尾猴和超过 200 种鸟类,是名副其实的灵长类动物天堂。

核心体验:在贡贝溪不可错过的 4 件事

1. 徒步追踪黑猩猩(Chimpanzee Trekking)实战指南

这是造访贡贝的终极理由。与塞伦盖蒂的驱车游猎不同,这里完全依靠步行。主要注意事项如下:

• 追踪过程:通常在清晨出发,由武装护林员和专业向导带领。追踪时间无法预知,可能只需 30 分钟,也可能需要徒步 3-4 小时穿越茂密的丛林和陡峭的山坡。

• 观看规则:为了保护黑猩猩免受人类疾病感染,佩戴外科口罩是强制性的。找到黑猩猩群后,由于它们是野生动物,您必须保持至少 10 米的安全距离。观赏时间严格限制为 1 小时。

• 装备建议:务必穿着防滑的登山靴、长裤(防蚊虫和带刺植物)以及透气性好的长袖衬衫。

2. 探索丛林深处:卡孔贝(Kakombe)与姆肯格(Mkenge)瀑布

除了追踪黑猩猩,公园内还有多条风景优美的徒步路线。其中通往 Kakombe Waterfall 的路线最受欢迎,如果在雨季前往,瀑布水量丰沛,水流从裂谷岩壁倾泻而下,景色蔚为壮观。这是一次绝佳的“森林浴”体验,沿途您可能会偶遇正在觅食的红尾猴。

3. 登顶“珍妮峰(Jane’s Peak)”

对于体力较好的旅行者,攀登至 Jane’s Peak 是必须完成的挑战。这里曾是古道尔博士经常驻足观察黑猩猩动向的高点。站在峰顶,您可以俯瞰整个公园郁郁葱葱的树冠层,并远眺浩瀚如海的坦噶尼喀湖,甚至能隐约看到对岸刚果(金)的群山。

4. 湖畔休闲与水上活动

在经历了高强度的丛林徒步后,回到湖边放松是最好的奖赏。坦噶尼喀湖水质清澈见底,被誉为天然的水族馆。您可以在指定区域游泳(注意遵循向导建议,避开河马和鳄鱼区域),或者安排一次日落独木舟之旅,在湖面上欣赏非洲壮丽的日落。

实用旅行攻略:如何规划您的贡贝之旅

最佳旅游季节与气候

• 旱季(7月至 10月):这是最佳旅游时间。此时黑猩猩通常在海拔较低的斜坡活动,追踪难度相对较低;且山路干燥,徒步更安全。摄影光线也最为充足。

• 雨季(11月至 4月):植被茂盛,风景绝美,也是观鸟的最佳季节。但山路湿滑泥泞,追踪黑猩猩可能需要更费力地攀爬至高处。

交通衔接:如何抵达

贡贝溪不通公路,水路是进入公园的唯一方式。

1. 第一步:抵达基戈马(Kigoma)。这是坦桑尼亚西部的交通枢纽。您可以从达累斯萨拉姆(Dar es Salaam)或阿鲁沙(Arusha)乘坐国内航班(如 Air Tanzania 或 Precision Air)飞往基戈马机场。

2. 第二步:乘船入园。

• 私人快艇:大多数游客选择由旅舍安排的私人快艇,从基戈马出发约 1 小时可达,舒适且节省时间。

• 公共水上出租车(Lake Taxi):从基戈马的 Kibirizi 海滩出发,价格便宜但耗时较长(约 4 小时),且由于拥挤和安全考量,不建议普通游客首选。

住宿推荐:从奢华木屋到生态露营

由于公园面积小,住宿选择非常有限:

• Mbali Mbali Gombe Lodge:公园内唯一的豪华住宿。只有 7 间帐篷套房,坐落在湖畔林间,提供全包式服务,体验极佳但价格昂贵,需提前数月预订。

• Gombe Bandas:由坦桑尼亚国家公园管理局(TANAPA)运营的经济型小屋。设施基础,通常需要自备食物或聘请厨师,适合背包客和预算有限的旅行者。

贡贝溪国家公园并非适合所有人的大众景点,路途的周折和徒步的艰辛筛选掉了匆忙的观光客。但对于那些渴望理解自然、追寻生命起源奥秘的灵魂来说,这里是不可替代的圣地。

贡贝溪国家公园 用户评价

  • reviews-avatar Lisa Petrtýlová
    4
    评论于 2024-02-15

    It's a paradise, for those willing to pay the price. This place is famous thanks to Jane Goodall who still comes every year and continues her research on chimpanzees that she habituated to humans. The best time to come is November/ December when you can see chimps in groups, other times it's harder to track them, IT'S NOT GUARANTEED TO SEE ANY, and if you lucky you spot 2 or three. Logistics : we didn't find much info apart from private boat for around 150$ However there are 2 other options to get there we tried both of them. We took public boat that leaves everyday except Sunday from port at 12h30. Cost was around 1$. Boat is shaded, life jackets were provided, time to Gombe was about 3h. It was ok, because there were good conditions, no waves. Entrance to the park 100$ without VAT! Tracking fee per group 20$ Accomodation 21$ (cheapest option, even if you have your own tent the price is the same) room is average, water pressure terrible Meals 5$ The best thing about this place is that there was noone just baboons and it has a great access to the beach with crystal clear water. Next day after the track we took public boat again leaving around 3pm to Mwagongo (30 min ride for about 0,25$) this time it was a bumpy ride, hard to board the boat, got completely wet :D We camped in the village ( the leaders of the village ended up persuading us to camp inside the village hall cause they were worried about our safety- apparently noone ever camped there before) it was completely free of charge, in the village we bought food ( rive beans chapati ) and water . Next day we hiked for 4h+ (uphill) to Kwa Bibi area from there we took a boda to a nearest road and from there public mini bus back to Kigoma, which was even cheaper than taking the boat again back to Kigoma ( the boat leaves at 7am) THIS IS PROBABLY THE CHEAPEST WAY TO VISIT GOMBE :)

  • reviews-avatar Larisa T
    5
    评论于 2023-11-08

    Yes, it's expensive to visit and awkward to get to, but this results in fewer visitors and makes Gombe Stream a peaceful and uncrowded place and hopefully will help protect and preserve these magnificent primates. I chose to stay 1 night at one of the four or so lakeside tents ($59 pp) but cheaper rest house accommodation was also available. The tent was great, with a comfortable bed, white bedlinen, hot shower, toilet, deck with chairs, power outlet (no power cuts during my stay). There were no bugs and I didn't drop down the anti-mozzie net. I did one long trek in the morning with Ahadi who was a fantastic guide. We saw two families, followed them first on a path, then through the bush and were able to stay with and observe them for quite a long time (until they decided to take off) on a few occasions. It was pure joy watching the chimps, especially the youngsters and babies! They are so fascinating! The trek was everything I hoped to get from this trip. Very lucky with the weather - sunny and dry - even though it rains now almost every day. The trails were not really muddy (it rained the day before) or too slippery. The scenery was fantastic. I organised the trip on my own: booked return Dar to Kigoma flights with Air Tansania, hotel in Kigoma for one night and researched the park fees in advance (these I believe are available on the TANAPA website, also blogs and forums. They haven't changed in a while.) What was not clear was how to arrange a boat transfer from Kigoma and its price with prices mentioned on the internet to be anywhere from $150 to $300 for the return journey. In the end, I managed to contact the Gombe visitor center in Kigoma and the super helpful Iddi aranged a TANAPA boat and a transfer from the airport to the TANAPA boat dock via WhatsApp. The costs are as follows: approx. $90 cash for the fuel (I paid TZS) payable to the boat captain, and $23.6 per boat + $23.6 per night waiting time to the park by card when you arrive in the park. The boat was very nice and the ride to the park very scenic and took approx. 1 hour 15 minutes one way. Tipping (park guide, chimp finder / checker, boat captain) is expected, appreciated and well-deserved - all the park staff were great and a pleasure to deal with. Even though Air Tanzania cancelled one of my flights and messed my park visit plans, it all worked very well for me in the end, and I had a superb experience in the park.

  • reviews-avatar Sadashiv N
    5
    评论于 2022-11-02

    Gombe National Park was an incredible experience. We stayed for two days and one night there. The park ranger Mr. Saanane was very cordial and got our entry permits sorted quickly. We had a guide assigned who took us around on both days. We were lucky to have sighted chimpanzees within 15 minutes of arriving in the park. On the second morning, we hiked across the island to see several breathtaking views (Jane's Peak) and refreshed ourselves at a waterfall, besides sighting more chimps (this time they weren't closeby and were on the trees). We stayed in a luxury tent which was on the lakeside and had great amenities (there are cheaper options such as guesthouse rooms also available). Our trip was arranged by Roaring Tours and Safaris, who were very good and affordable overall. Amos, our chef who accompanied us, was a creative genius with his culinary skills!

  • reviews-avatar Lydie C
    5
    评论于 2022-03-16

    It was one of the best experience of my whole life. We were two. We made a day trip and it was enough for us. We left Kigoma at 7am with a private boat (around 140$ for the day). We arrived after 2 hours at Gombe National park. People there were very welcoming. We paid entrance fees 118$ per person plus guide fee 23,6$ for the group (max 6 people). You don't have the choice to pay fees by card and there is 1,5% additional taxes. It could be interesting to go to Gombe National park office in Kigoma to prepared the trip. We didn't, but if you don't have any contact it will be easier. Paulo the ranger who guided us there give us a lot of explanations during the trek, we learned a lot. After only two hours of trekking in a stunning, but sometimes challenging, landscape, we met three chimps. A mother and her children. It was incredible to see them eating, jumping and relaxing on the trees. We stayed one hour close to them (it is the maximum you can stay with chimps, to a 10 meters distance). The trek was not really hard, but you have to take good hiking shoes and water. We also saw waterfalls and Jane's peak. After the trek, we did go down for lunch. The meal is provided for 10$ per person. Try the local fish it is delicious ! We left the park around 3pm because the weather was not the best, but you can stay for others activities like swimming, kayaking, snorkelling...

  • reviews-avatar Jamie Hunt
    5
    评论于 2022-01-29

    Gombe was an incredible park. Loads of Chimpanzees to meet very close to the park gate, we were able to get super close to the wild animals. Knowledgeable guide who knew exactly where we found the chimps and knew them all by name. We also met the Vice President of Tanzania who happened to be visiting that day! Made selfies & nice chat with him. 😃

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